People
Portrait of the fire keeper at a Bat Trang kiln
In every firing there is one person rarely named: the kiln keeper. They read the fire with their eyes, their nose and a lifetime of experience.
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4 stories
Food
Hue chè and the street vendors who carry it
People in Hue can name dozens of kinds of chè. Behind that variety is a careful way of eating and the street vendors who have fed many generations.
Festivals & customs
Full moon in Hoi An, when the whole town lives by the moon
Every full moon, Hoi An old town has its own rituals: lighting lanterns, floating paper lanterns, making offerings. They are traces of a way of life that still measures time by the moon.
Food
Early morning phở in Hanoi, a breakfast that holds a whole way of street life
For many Hanoians, phở is breakfast. Look at a phở stall at six in the morning and you see the whole rhythm of the city's streets.
